• 0 Posts
  • 5 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
cake
Cake day: February 10th, 2024

help-circle
  • My experience is mostly with Sony TVs, which run near-stock Android TV and do have a settings toggle to disable Bluetooth without needing root. Some models need BT for voice search (if mic is in the remote), and to many people losing that might be a good thing, but others seem to need it for basic menu navigation from the stock remote because odd features like trackpad don’t blast through IR. Considering how often I see unfamiliar TVs listed when I look at my phone’s Bluetooth pairing menu, I knew plenty of other TV vendors use constant discoverable mode.

    Having strangers within wireless range (especially for 2.4 GHz, but 5 GHz can be bad too) be able to intentionally and/or repeatedly interrupt what you’re doing with a pairing request at any time absolutely should be seen as a severe security flaw in my eyes. Even if they can’t successfully pair, the request prompt is akin to denial-of-service. Being such a blatant flaw that people often do it by mistake is even worse.


  • I think it’s far more common for devices to get pairing wrong than to get it right.

    Just a few of the very common issues I’ve seen in various devices:

    • TVs that are constantly in discoverable mode, even when the screen is off. Just in case the owner loses their remote and wants to pair a new one without reaching behind the TV to press a button. No way of avoiding this except disabling Bluetooth entirely, which makes the stock remote lose either partial or all functionality. Pairing requests also interrupt whatever you’re watching.
    • Audio devices that have a very short delay after turning on and waiting for any already-paired devices to connect before switching over to a pairing mode instead. So short that a smartphone in a low-power state (e.g. because you haven’t unlocked it for a few minutes) might not connect in time. Most if not all of the bluetooth-to-3.5mm receivers intended for older cars seem to share this problem.
    • Pairing codes are extremely underused in general, even among input devices. Most things seem to just pair with whoever sends a request first unconditionally.

  • the fact that it still includes USB-A ports

    Why complain about this? This is a good thing. Most people have USB-A peripherals and the majority of new keyboards and mice even in 2025 still rely on it. Game controllers too: Switch 2 Pro, Xbox Elite 2, 8bitdo wireless controllers, and many others all include a USB A to C cable (cables with USB-C on both ends can be used too but need to be bought separately) for charging and optional wired play, and all modern wired-only controllers use a USB-A cable. Far better for the device to offer USB-A ports than force most users to buy USB-A adapters.

    This system does have one USB-C port on the back, though it would be better if it had one on the front too in addition to the USB-A ones.